Being Korean, I can’t go too long without some sort of Asian food fix; ideally Korean, but Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian and even Indian will do. Now France, which is roughly twice the size of Colorado, doesn’t exactly boast a booming Asian population, so finding decent Asian food can be a challenge.
Japan Town (or Street, since it’s really one main street) is located near the beautiful Paris Opera in the 9th arrondissement. I’ll give you a short lesson on arrondissements if you need it in a future blog. When I studied in Paris years ago, my roommate would take me to this same area for curry rice (one of my favorite dishes of all time) and kimchee whenever we were hungover from dancing all night at Les Bains Douches. Unfortunately, the curry rice place is closed, though Bains Douches is apparently still going strong! I wonder if the same butch blonde doorwoman, Marilyn, is manning the ropes still? Amazing the things one can remember… I digress…
Anyway, rue Sainte Anne is a cute street filled with Japanese noodle shops, sushi places and even a few Korean restaurants and grocery stores! I’ve tried some of the noodle shops, but the one which has consistently impressed me with its savory soups, ramen, udon and perfectly fried gyoza is Higuma at 32 bis rue Sainte Anne in the first. It’s a pretty run-down looking place with an open kitchen as you walk in, frenetic activity between the cooks and the servers and both a bar and tables where you can eat. Judging from the crowds who’ve overrun this place since the first time I ate here a few years ago, I think it’s getting plenty of write-ups (which sucks because now I have to wait, though turnaround is pretty quick), but which are definitely well-deserved. (Click the link for the Zagat reviews.)
What I love most about Higuma—though it doesn’t rival my fave noodle place in NYC, Menchanko-Tei—is that they have curry rice on the menu! Hey, Bains Douches (and Marilyn), here I come…
Address:
Higuma, 32 bis rue Sainte Anne
75001 Paris
+33 1 47 03 38 59
3 Comments
Tuesday, January 8, 2008 at 3:39 am
Being spoiled in New York where restaurants are open almost around the clock – especially in Chinatown, I accustomed to go out to eat whenever I want, can, or when the opportunity arises.
When I was in France, I had to re-adjust myself to finding the right restaurant or bistro when they make themselves available. Most eateries are open only for lunch, then close up until dinnertime. If hunger strikes anytime between, street venders and open cafes are the left over choices.
But what a country. Bar-cafes, three on a street. I stopped in on as many as possible for a drink and to soak in the ambience.
My favorite places were near the Opera house and off the Seine on the opposite side of Notre Dame Cathredal. I think Inspector Clouseau was our waiter at that one (I gave him a good tip and passed a compliment about him to his angered maitre d.)
Thursday, January 17, 2008 at 1:43 am
I love Higuma. I’m sitting here in LA trying to decide where to get ramen tonight and was reminiscing about delicious miso ramen and crispy salty gyoza on rue ste anne.
As a Asian American (thai) in Paris for two years, I always needed my fix. I found it at higuma, pho 14, and pho 27. The former is a pretty standard wildly popular pho place in the 13th. The latter isn’t really a pho place at all, but is owned by Cambodians who make some of the only authentic thai food i found in paris at a reasonable price. Plus it is just across from Cafe Cherie.
Pho Banh Cuon 14
129, Avenue Choisy
75013 Paris, France
+33 1 45 83 61 15
Pho 27
27, Boulevard Villette
75010 Paris, France
+33 1 42 01 29 20
Thursday, January 17, 2008 at 9:46 am
Thanks so much for the recommendations. I’ll definitely check them out! Haven’t had good Thai food yet here, though I had some really good Laotian over in the 13th. And there’s a great noodle place I went to in LA years ago, close to Santa Monica, but of course, I can’t remember now…